Camino de Santiago Day 19

Monday, April 25

Sahagún to El Burgo Rañero

Jk Mansillas de Los Mulas

18 km / 12 miles 37 km / 23 miles

My body woke me up today, needing to pee thinking it was still the middle of the night. And then a minute later, at 6:30, my alarm went off. My body has officially adjusted to Camino time and early mornings. We had a lovely communal breakfast with fellow pilgrims: bread, jam, cheese, meat, fruit, and lots of coffee.

I decided last night on a shorter day today, 18 km / 12 miles to El Burgo Rañero. And just to be safe, I sent my bag there too. Yesterday was insanely long, almost 40 km, and I thought a shorter day would do me good.

Well. Maybe not.

Leaving town at 8, I passed a cool sculpture, marking Shagún as the center of the Camino, the halfway mark!

Today was a flat, long road. Easy terrain. So easy that I made it to El Burgo Rañero at 11:30, just 3 and a half hours of walking. You know what comes next right?

I picked up my bag from the albergue I was planning to stay at, had a quick bite to eat (pulpo/octopus and potatoes!) and of course, kept walking. My body felt good, with the normal foot pains of course, so I hiked on!

I spent a good bit of time waking with Cornelia from Germany, who was out here for 3 weeks. She has two kids, one of which is her daughter who will meet her in Santiago upon her arrival, and 4 grandchildren! We had great conversation until I needed a break to rest, and she powered on!

The meseta is the high plains of Spain, often notorious in the Camino. It’s been a few days of a never-ending, straight on path. Every ten feet is perfectly planted tree and nothing but fields all around. For us this spring, it is nice; but in the popular summer months on the Camino, the heat is brutal and there is zero shade. So as boring as the meseta can be for us, I can imagine how much worse it is in the summer.

I made it 13 km more (8 miles) to Reliegos, where I thought I would definitely stop for the day. But of course, we all know what happens now. My body still felt alright, it was only 3 pm, and I had some friends in the next town just 6 km (4 miles) away. So, true to my stubborn self, I kept on. My legs felt okay, as long as I kept a slower pace. But my feet hurt and I began chaffing pretty badly. But as long as my legs were okay, I was happy. And after another hour and a half, totaling 8 and a half hours for the day, I made it 37 km (23 miles) to Mansilla de Las Mulas, a town I swore multiple times I would not even attempt to get to today. That’s 76 km (47 miles) in two days. Coming off an injury. I’m dumb. But again, I feel good, I feel strong. And also dumb.

But the best part, I caught up with friends from the beginning of the Camino that I thought I’d never see again! After literally and figuratively catching up and having dinner, it’s time to relax, ice, and rest. And wine. Leon tomorrow! Good night!

Spent:

€5 Backpack

€1 Breakfast

€3 Pulpo and Potato

€10 albergue

€10 Groceries/Dinner

Total € 29

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