Wednesday, April 13
Los Arcos to Logroño
29 km / 18 miles
I’m getting an early, 6:30 am start today, as I’ve got 29 km (18 miles) to cover. I left town in the dark, walking on mostly flat terrain unaware of exactly what what was around me. I passed a bright electrical plant where I actually ran into Kevin just past. We walked together for a bit, through farmlands and hills, a common theme of the past few days.
It’s so beautiful before sunrise; the dark distance rolling hills outlined in the night sky, with low hanging fog hugging them tight and small village lights twinkling here and there.
I also walked with Rose from the Netherlands today. We talked a bit and enjoyed each other’s company. And then I met Bettina, who is also from the Netherlands, and so so funny. They are are good time to be around.
We got to Logroño around 12:30, about 6 hours of hiking. The day wasn’t too difficult, just a long and painful after a while. We checked into the donativo, Parroquial de Santiago El Real at 2pm. After quick showers, L (Korea), Fernando (Madrid) and Adam (Arizona, USA) walked over to the famous Calle Laurel for pinchos (tapas) and wine! A few glasses and it became nap time until dinner. This donativo actually hosted dinner for the 20 pilgrims staying there. Our host began with a little pilgrims song, “Ultreia, ultreia, et suseia, deus, adjuva nos.” Roughly translated, “keep going, keep going, keep growing, God help us.” We all sang the verse together, and then had a wonderful meal: huge salads with beets, carrots, and pumpkin seeds. And the main course was a hot chorizo and potato stew. Finally a hot meal that left me feeling so satisfied after. And to sit at a long table with our hosts and 19 other pilgrims with great conversation was the best part. I think the people you meet and connections made on the Camino are truly special.
After dinner around 10pm, normally fast asleep by then, we took a couple back tunnels connecting us to the church. This was the starting point for an Easter procession through town. We watched as purple cloaked men and their families gathered together in this beautiful church to celebrate the procession. 48 cloaked men carried a Jesus statue from the church to through the streets and eventually to the main square. Easter, and the week leading up to, is a huge deal, I’m gathering. Logroño happens to be unique from most celebrations across Spain. The church doors are not big enough for the procession, so the carriers have to move on their knees under the church doors in order for the Jesus statue to clear. It was an amazing moment to witness, especially since the procession hasn’t happened in a few years because of COVID. I felt really grateful and lucky to have been in Logrono tonight to have witnessed this moment.
€25 drinks and snacks